I made it to Istanbul as the sun was dipping below the horizon. Due to the congestion during peak hours, our taxi driver was unable to drop us off directly at The Bank Hotel – A member of Design Hotels, situated in the historic area known as Bankalar Caddesi (Banks Streets), which apparently bears immense significance, as it was serving as the bustling financial center of the Ottoman Empire. But over time, the buildings in this area have been repurposed to accommodate modern functions, including offices, shops, restaurants, and notably, a luxurious hotel.
Indeed, our stay found us residing within a former bank building that had once housed prestigious institutions such as Crédit Général Ottoman, Deutsche Bank, and Sümerbank. I couldn’t help but envisioning financial advisors serving us gourmet meals on silver platters. Let alone how the thought of sleeping in a bank was inviting to count interest rates instead of sheep to drift off to sleep.
But real talk, its transformation into a stunning hotel has endowed it with a new vibrancy. With a rooftop restaurant offering breathtaking views of Istanbul, it was here that I gained my initial impressions of the city and eagerly anticipated the adventures that lay ahead in my trip.
I walked to the street of the hotel with a guitar slinging over my shoulders. Typically, carrying the guitar through streets prompts curious gazes and an occasional jest of “what are you going to sing for us” – a jest that I got from many travelers all the way from Abu Dhabi to Turkey. But here in Istanbul my guitar didn’t draw any special attention. At first, I attributed it to the fact that I was just another traveler visiting the city with a crossbody bag and a luggage, making people anticipate me to be laden with bags, but later I came to realize that the lack of attention simply stemmed from the fact that the sight of instruments is so common in the city.
You’d find street musicians with busking hats all over the places, whether along the Bosporus, or in the bustling Ortaköy Square, or even in urban public spaces known as Meydan. They sing with so much joy and passion, drawing crowds eager to capture their performance in a video. They sing brightly without having to appear glum that the celebrity status has not bestowed upon them as musicians.
And I sang in the street too! – Not by choice, but by the insistence of a close companion who never runs out of ways to push me beyond my comfort zone. As I opened my mouth to sing, there was no voice waiting behind my lips, all I was hoping for was for the earth to swallow me wholly. But as I strummed the guitar I was totally surprised by the indifference of the people. They seemed to be very appreciative to the simple act of making music even with imperfect vocals or chords. In fact, one lady even captured a selfie video with me in the background! – CLICK HERE to watch the reel of me singing in Istanbul street
Beyond the melodic words, there are the written ones! Everywhere we turned in Turkey, there were libraries with inviting shelves. My heart melted every time I looked at a library store to read the word “Kütüphane,” offering a linguistic connection with Arabs – whom we call it Maktabah. Yet, and sadly, for the first time, I felt like a foreigner in a library as I encountered a new linguistic landscape with the Turkish language. Despite the widespread popularity of Turkish dramas across the Arab World, my familiarity with the Turkish language remained scant. But that didn’t stop me from wanting to explore, and amidst the linguistic unfamiliarity, one library drew me in: Istanbul Kitapcisi, nestled next to the Metro Station in Istiklal. Its shelves brimmed with a diverse selection of books, inviting us to linger and explore. Among the array of titles, my gaze was drawn to “A Man’s Place” by Annie Ernaux. Intrigued, I hesitated, only for my friend to express interest in the same book independently. The serendipitous alignment of our tastes spurred further investigation into the author’s works. Ultimately, we found ourselves purchasing not only “A Man’s Place” but also another intriguing title, “Exterior.”
But the Turkish people appreciation for arts extends beyond just literature, music and current days. One cannot overlook Turkey’s pronounced presence of artistic heritage. They have a profound reverence of tile arts known as Iznik– a traditional form of decorative expression that is traced back to the 12th century (and some other resources trace it to the 500 BC). It is distinguished with its geometric designs and vibrant colors, predominantly adorned in shades of blue. Often, these tiles feature floral motifs and excerpts of Quranic verses in calligraphic scripts.
You find them in every single street of Istanbul, most notably in the Grand Bazar. Yet, their constant presence never fails to captivate you as anything less than extraordinary. Each piece has the power to make the outside world fades into an insignificance making you contemplate the stories, the centuries of history, and the cultures that have been woven and manifested into the tangible, final and delicate design of the tile.
And when I say “contemplating the history behind the tile pieces” I absolutely mean it. Because historic sites like the Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia stand as living proof of tile work’s enduring importance.
Constructed centuries ago, these architectural wonders continue to captivate visitors with their intricate tile adornments, elevating their already iconic status. Visitors can marvel at the walls of these ancient structures, where every tile tells a story, adding to their timeless allure.
It’s no surprise that there was a seemingly endless line winding its way towards the ticket booth for the Topkapi sightseeing, with each person eager to catch a glimpse of its majestic architecture, regardless of the time it would take just to secure a ticket.
But not me—I hate waiting. Thanks to my liberation from the queue, which came in the form of a voice piercing through the air, offering to “Skip the queue and save time”. Turning, we found a man exuding an air of effortless charm, glowing under an invisible spotlight in Sultanahmet Square. His persuasive tone, paired with his rosy complexion and distinguished gray hair, which added an extra touch of flair to his charisma, made it nearly impossible for my friend and me to resist purchasing his tour-guiding service. And his name is even more charismatic. Harun! (BTW, we were standing at the wrong queue, so Harun was a real life-saver).
But there’s more to the beauty of those places than just the tangible decoration of tiles! Harun’s explanations about the history, motives, conventions, and the energy behind the people who built and lived in them, creating a whole history, offered deeper insights into their beauty.
Consider the Topkapi Palace, where you’ll discover a fascinating arrangement: doors never face each other, building entrances are never perfectly aligned with surrounding pillars, and each building features pillars with subtly varied hues. Harun explains that these deliberate discrepancies in design serve to emphasize the concept of wholeness or perfection, known as alkmal in Arabic, reserved solely for Allah. Doesn’t the meticulous reflection of these profound Islamic beliefs in the building’s design give the place a deeper significance, surpassing mere colorful tiles or mosaics!
And it’s not only beliefs! The final version of the palace is the culmination of centuries of history, power, and contributions by successive sultans, each leaving a unique mark through the expansions and renovation of the palace complex. These enhancements reflected a spectrum of visions, from simplicity echoing Islamic values to an era of strong diplomatic ties with the European power, influencing the place with European architecture, evident in ornate furnishing and gilded decoration.
Let alone the weight of immense prestige, grandeur and power one would feel in their heart as you get to know how expansive was the ottoman empire; ruling from Topkapi tens of countries from Southeastern Europe to the Middle East and onward to North Africa, making the palace beauty characterized by power and development that is hard to be framed in mere words.
Unlike Dolmabahçe Palace, which came to the picture as a response to the changing needs and tastes of the Ottoman ruler, and which is equally iconic with its elegant and sophisticated style, situated majestically along the shores of the Bosphorus. However, it reflects a singular vision of European influence marked by a deliberate attempt to incorporate Western design elements, evident in its ornate decorations, majestic halls, and opulent furnishings. Dolmabahçe Palace primarily seeks to showcase single style orientation reflecting mere wealth and power, lacking the depth of historical richness and diverse perspectives found within the walls of Topkapi Palace.
Hagia Sophie, too, serves as a perfect example where the majesty of the place isn’t attributed to decoration only! As I reached Sultanahmet Square, where the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia are facing each other, I first casted my gaze upon the Blue Mosque, curious by a story lingered in my mind, suggesting that it was built to rival the magnificence of Hagia Sophia. I couldn’t deny the sense of awe and wonder that welled up within me the moment I laid eyes on it. There was something about the white marble and the vibrant blue tiles that give the mosque its nickname. Not to mention the series of domes and semi-domes, along with the six towering minarets, all of which contributed to a feeling of insignificance in the presence of such grandeur.
But as soon as I turned my head around to face Hagia Sophia, I came to know the true meaning of the adjective “breathtaking”. I involuntarily drew in a deep breath that seemed to envelop me, expressing everything without being able to utter a single word. As though the building possessed a soulful presence that eluded all sort of easy descriptions. Despite it looking pale and subdued in comparison to the blue mosque, there was a unique aura emanating from it exuding a beauty and magnificence all its own, which to me beat all the rivalry behind the design of the blue mosque despite its beauty.
Similar to Topkapi, Hagia Sophia embodies a rich spectrum of visions and history, evident in the deliberate placement of the Mihrab a few centimeters off-center from the altar during its conversion into a mosque to face mecca, disrupting the symmetry of the space, or the thoughtful decision to construct slideways instead of staircases, streamlining its construction process with thoughtful efficiency, or the constant flow of visitors that has left its mark on the structure with the second floor bearing slight undulations, observable in the gentle slant of an interior pillar.
And its dome! The largest of its time and still among the largest today, stands as a testament to the marvels of its construction. From the method of filling the building with soil, to its remarkable lack of reliance on supporting pillars. Its endurance today credits Architect Sinan’s pivotal role. This came to light at the Hagia Sophia History Museum, where we learned for the first time about the dome’s collapse and subsequent reconstruction.
I’m in love with the modern way this museum preserve history, employing audio, lighting, and music effects to bring to life the stories of the individuals behind Hagia Sophia’s legacy. Talking about preservation, credit goes to all heroes and heroines behind keeping it alive and preserved. From Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora to Emperor Constantine and Mehmed the Conqueror, the museum enriches the visitor’s understanding of the people whose vision and ambition shaped this architectural wonder.
One can’t leave Sultan Ahmet Square without experiencing a hammam bath. Hurrem Sultan Hamami, is also preserved until today, where I encountered for the first time the glass cubes on the ceiling that allow natural light to illuminate the space, resembling normal electrical lights. However, we didn’t visit for the architecture; it was the luxurious, rejuvenating experience we sought. You are first enveloped in a warm, steamy atmosphere, followed by a vigorous exfoliating scrub and soap massage. Once it’s all over, you can relax in the lounge with incredible tea and a piece of Lokum.
History is also preserved and comes alive in the tangible items found in museum stores. They’re not just visually pleasing; they are masterfully crafted to seamlessly blend contemporary aesthetics with echoes of the past. For instance, there was a captivating vase that seemed to whisper secrets of the past, its design echoing the intricate ceiling ornamentation of the Sultan Resting Room. And in another store, we found an elegant black platter, its dome cover adorned with golden lines reminiscent of the majestic Hagia Sophia. And then the stunning tea cups with their sea-blue saucers, their allure impossible to resist, reminiscent of the Imperial Sea Gate of Dolmabahçe. They beckoned us to take a piece of history home with us.
But the real showstoppers? (1) a remarkable tile piece, where the name of Allah was calligraphed with such geometric precision and beauty. It wasn’t just a piece of art; it was a testament to the rich cultural heritage and profound spirituality encapsulated in every line and curve. (2) Mosaic plates of Jesus and Mary inspired by the iconic depiction in one of Hagia Sophia walls. One can’t help but feel a sense of serenity washing over the soul as if the very essence of Jesus and Mary emanates from these intricate designs.
It’s amazing how they capture the spirit of past times, making each item timeless and appealing to everyone, both modern and infused with the essence of history. It’s a testament to the skilled craftsmanship involved in preserving history through tangible artifacts.
Curiosity shops do the preservation too, and they are not uncommon; you can find them scattered throughout many places in Istanbul where culture and history are also preserved through the objects they display, ranging from cultural artifacts to antique items and various oddities from around the world. It was in one such shop where I was introduced to Lady Justice: the blindfolded woman holding scales and a sword, symbolizing impartiality, fairness, and the enforcement of justice.
One curiosity shop that is a must-visit is located in The Four Seasons Hotel at Sultanahmet, called Selim. Here, we purchased a beautiful drawing of Istanbul depicting all its main landmarks in one picture, as well as a heavenly oil perfume named Asitane. The name “Asitane” was historically used for Istanbul during its tenure as the capital of the Ottoman Empire, carrying with it a fascinating fragrance that encapsulates Istanbul’s rich history from ancient times to the modern era.
But arts are never just a History. People of Turkey continue to make arts until today! In Galata Port, there’s an entire Museum of Modern Art showcasing paintings, art installations, and videos that have transformed Turkey’s art scene since 1945.
Regrettably, our visit was cut short as we arrived only 30 minutes before closing time. Consequently, we could only explore the permanent exhibition briefly. Nonetheless, even in that short time, we encountered marvels such as the geometric paintings by Albert Bitran and a haunting yet captivating piece by Cihat Burak—a dark depiction of a deceased man adorned with a flower on his chest and blood streaming from his mouth. Additionally, we were moved by Inci Eviner’s profound lyrical description accompanying his artwork titled ‘Skinless,’ exploring themes of estrangement, loss of memory, and displacement from one’s homeland.
Also, art galleries dotted all the streets and tucked even in the narrowest alleys. I didn’t explore many of them, but a particular one on Istiklal Street stood out (ustling pedestrian street in Istanbul, known for its vibrant atmosphere, historical significance, and diverse range of shops, restaurants, and cultural attractions). This art gallery was showcasing the diverse talent of Selma Gurbuz through painting, sculptors and some other arts installations. Despite my very limited knowledge of art, the depth of creativity and the richness of the artist imagination was undeniable, leaving a lasting impression despite my novice perspective.
And in a very narrow alley near Galata Tower (Which was under maintenance during our visit), we stumbled upon another art gallery named Erit Art Gallery. My friend was captivated by the abstract artwork they displayed. Despite not being a fan of modern art, his curiosity led him to inquire about the symbolism behind the paintings. Unfortunately, due to the language barrier with the staff, we couldn’t fully grasp their explanations. However, we found solace in the universal language of art, where meaning transcends verbal communication.
History in Istanbul is not limited to the aforementioned places, in fact, you see history everywhere you move in Istanbul. Whether in the narrow cobblestone streets where centuries-old buildings stand as silent witnesses to the city’s past glory, or within the lively markets where the echoes of traders and merchants from distant lands resonate, embodying Istanbul’s role as a global crossroads of commerce and culture.
And also, in the city’s architectural landscape where the mosques are so influenced by the contribution of Mimar Sinan. Where you see the dome as a prominent feature across it’s urban fabric. Whether the dome was merely influenced by the architectural achievement of Hagia Sophie, or it was based on Sinan’s intention to preserve the dome concept all across his work, Sinan’s presence in the mosques work provide unfathomable sense of grandeur, history and spiritual upliftment.
Not to mention the passages that holds a historical as well as cultural significance in shaping the social fabric of Istanbul, as they once served as a meeting places where people from different background come together to socialize, trade and exchange Ideas.
Among these passages, Çiçek Pasaji stands out with its nostalgic charm, embodying a fusion of French Spirit and elegant architecture that aimed to attract foreign visitors with its upscaled shop. Its atmospheric corridors still echo with the melodies of yesteryears, evoking memories of a bygone era when it thrived as a cultural hub.
And people in Turkey – whether Turkish or expats – continue to make history. Maybe not by diplomatic power through which they establish ties, or motives that are all about conquering the world, but rather by the mere act of creating based on joy, preserving past’s legacies, and supporting others.
Who would have imagined that Harun, the former history teacher, who passionately recounted the tales of Topkapi and offered new insights challenging our understanding of the Harem, sourced from his extensive historical studies, would turn out to be a tradesman? His expertise shines as he explains the intricate art of carpet, while his store proudly displays breathtaking carpets, one of which is made of pure silk adorned with birds priced at a staggering 4000 Euros. As I gazed longingly at the carpet, I couldn’t help but feel a pang of regret for my inability to afford it.
It’s not all about profit for him, though; he seemed comfortably well-off already. His pursuit of tourists seemed to be driven by a desire to relish life and indulge his passion for teaching history. Isn’t his ability to find joy amidst his downtime a lesson in itself?
Or the cheeky old man, with eyes that could charm the birds out of the trees and a demeanor so aggressively charismatic, you’d think he invented swag! Charismatically, he insisted that I “model” for a picture by the sea – not for free, mind you, but with a price tag and a forced tip, despite my eyelids betraying me in the picture, making me look like I’m taking a snooze. How he managed to make me pay, shut my eyes, tip him, and pose his way, all while laughing, is beyond me!
When I was planning my trip, I was certain that I needed to capture some memories with a professional photographer. The moment I searched for ‘Photographer in Istanbul’ on Google, ISTAGRAPHER appeared. I instantly fell in love with the portfolio; there was something about his work and edits that seemed to bring the pictures to life. Abbas, the photographer, makes taking a picture as effortless as chatting with your best friend. You don’t have to pose; his mere smile alone can embolden you to move in different ways, resulting in pictures that are not only vibrant with colors and beautiful views but also vibrant with the movement he encourages you to do. As I look at his work, with myself starring in the pictures, I wonder how Abbas can make solo pictures capturing the bustling streets without showing the crowd, and the scents of the city without depicting its flowers!
And Abbas brings good energy with him! The driver who accompanied him, Radwan, had a very light yet pronounced presence. He certainly doesn’t interfere in the proceedings, but somehow, he was adept at enlivening the locations with his cheerful vibes alone, without saying much! I wonder how a person can be so carefree, liberated, and light-hearted all at once.
And I’ll never forget this guy who practically glowed with joy the moment we cleared out his entire stock of rice-stuffed mussels – Midye Dolma. With a masterful touch, he cracked open those mussels for us, revealing the aromatic rice inside as if it were the easiest thing in the world, all the while showering us with “love you’s” for our purchase. It was like watching a culinary maestro at work, spreading love one mussel at a time.
Meet the super eloquent salesman who effortlessly rolls out big words in English without a pause for a thought. He kicks off his sales spiel with a captivating intro about the plush towels at Jennifer Hammam, even throwing in a hint about bringing their product to the UAE.
A vision that is already in the mind of the Canadian owner of the store, whom I serendipitously had the pleasure of meeting. But instead of delivering her product by exporting, she simply aimed to target tourists visiting Istanbul, enticing them to take her towels back home. Her business model not only bring “quality from the past” – as per her slogan, but also provides support to Turkish weavers, preserving their craft from the threat of mass production and machinery. Through her endeavors, she seamlessly blends tradition with modernity, ensuring that these ancient crafts continue to thrive in the contemporary world.
Abdallah is no exception; he, too, is propelled by his fervor to uphold the tradition of soap making, ensuring its continuity into the present day, by offering natural soaps and handcrafted linens, marrying old-world techniques with contemporary flair.
And how funny it is when sometimes the most unexpected connections aren’t found home, but found in another land. Mohammad Zhoori, who I could tell from his very Arabic twist in English that he wasn’t Turkish, as he was describing the amazing deserts offered in Aya Fish Lounge.
The moment he opened up about being Palestinian Syrian, it was like a lightbulb went off in my head. Suddenly, it all made sense. My heart just filled with this warmth, you know? And seeing the tears glisten in his eyes as he pulled me into this tight embrace, it was like we were sharing this unspoken understanding of our roots.
They’re not the best, and absolutely characters that shouldn’t be in any history book, but they are definitely the funniest. Dealing with them feels like being caught up in a comical heist, where they somehow manage to pull off daylight robbery with their sky-high prices. Take the one we met in the old town and stood firm refusing to budge, and waiting for a heavy spender willing to drop 40 euros on a ride barely worth 200 Turkish Lira.
And don’t even get me started on their driving skills – they navigate through narrow alleys like they’re performing some kind of circus act, squeezing through spaces meant for only one car with a trail of vehicles in tow.
A bright personality with a striking earring adorning his left ear, was the first to serve me my first authentic cup of Turkish coffee in Bankalar Caddesi. Interestingly, every coffee shop in the area had a logo depicting Mia and Sebastian dancing from the beloved musical, La La Land. Upon my inquiry for a lighter, Furat kindly taught me that it is known as “çakmak” in Turkish, generously offering to impart more words that I can use during my stay in Istanbul. With a touch of humor, he likened our linguistic challenge to that of two horses conversing in different tongues, joking that as he learns English by day, I would learn Turkish.
Even coffee in Turkey is steeped in rich historical backgrounds. What history agrees on is that coffee has a long history in Turkey, dating back to the Ottoman Empire. Coffeehouses, known as ‘kahvehane,’ were popular social gathering places by the 17th century. However, folklore adds an intriguing twist. Legend has it that during a Turkish war, a store of coffee beans accidentally burnt, releasing an enticing aroma that led to the discovery of coffee’s delightful flavor and effects. It even became a favorite drink of Hurrem Sultan. To be honest, I didn’t enjoy Turkish coffee everywhere in Turkey, but Hafiz Mustafa is one place I’d recommend, where I brought some back home.
Food, the pinnacle of delights, was a treasure I saved for last. Whenever I mentioned my upcoming trip to Istanbul, the unanimous response was, “You’ve got to try their food; it’s not only affordable but also the most mouthwatering cuisine you’ll ever taste.” While I typically view food as mere sustenance rather than a source of extravagant pleasure, I couldn’t resist the allure of Istanbul’s food offerings.
My first taste of Donner happened on my very first day in Istanbul, thanks to this cozy place called Sutis in Taksim. But let me tell you, the flavors are so captivating that a single visit fails to provide complete satisfaction, inviting you to multiple return visits. So of course, we had to visit it again.
Also, where I’m from, we tend to think that the vibe of a place somehow seeps into the flavor of the food. But then we stumbled upon Dönerci Engin Usta, a little gem of a spot that was quarter the size of Sutis but packed with the same punch of deliciousness in its own special way.
Can I tell you about the delectable meat skewers with the vibrant tastes of the city that you cannot find in any place except for Sultanamet Koftecisi! And it’s no less than Sutis in terms of compelling you for a subsequent visit. We tried to go their again but it was closed so early, so we had to try another place that offers equally delicious Kofta called Firuz Et-Kepap.
We first tried it at a restaurant, but trust me, the ones sold on the streets are far more delicious and irresistible. The addition of a squeeze of lemon imparts a subtle twist that elevates the flavor to a whole new level. With every bite, I felt like the starry-eyed emoji come to life.
Gözleme is like a savory Turkish sandwich, but better! Picture thin, doughy goodness filled with your choice of ingredients – maybe spinach and feta cheese (My choice). It’s then grilled until golden brown, creating a crispy, flavorful delight. Served hot off the grill! Yes, it turned my belly into a balloon animal, but who needs abs when you have deliciousness wrapped in dough?
Istanbul, is a city where the heartbeat pulses through every scale—whether you’re ballin’ on a budget, comfortably middle-class, or occasionally craving a posh twist. And then there’s Gunaydin Restaurant at Galataport, where we had a mouthwatering lamb chops that rival Eid’s candy in melt-in-your-mouth perfection, making it a meal to remember.
For people like me who just focus on the nutrition behind their meal, hardly if every do I care about the science behind it. But at Neolokal, I came to learn the term Gastronomy, where food aren’t just ingredients added to each other for the sake of flavor, but to artistically bond a relationship between culture, food and art, basing it all on science. And I would never ever think to start fancying about such posh concept hadn’t I tried it all in Neolokal, making Istanbul’s culinary magic knows no bounds, reminding us why it’s a city that captures not just our taste buds, but our hearts as well.
Sweets are my Achilles’ heel. The moment I indulge in one, it’s as though the temptation floodgates swings open going through an insatiable craving. Amidst my resistance, whenever I encountered the vibrant displays of Lukum in stores’ windows, I was drawn by their colors as if they were whispering to the void within me, promising comfort in their sweetness. One store stood out: Ali Muhiddin, the true artisan behind the original Lokum. It’s a taste so divine that no soul should miss out on the experience.
And don’t even get me started on Güllüoğlu. The moment you take a bite, and all that ghee and sugar syrup explodes in your mouth, it’s like you’ve been transported to a different dimension, contemplating the entire universe in awe.
We left the Hotel feeling a pang of sadness tugged at our heart, amplified by the sight of a cat curled up behind the door, as if silently bidding us farewell. The rain was pouring from the sky as if the city was crying on behalf of our hearts for a week we spent that was among the most enriching of my life.
As I sit here now, penning down my final thoughts on this magnificent city, with a sense of bittersweet nostalgia washing over me. One cannot help but feel a shiver running down their spine as they witness the collision of perspectives, history, and cultures. Whether it’s in the transformation of buildings’ functions, the branching out of beauty through subsequent additions, or even the reflection of beliefs in all of the city’s aspects. Altogether, and regardless of its maintenance, makes Istanbul retain a warm soul capable of abating the intensity of the cold weather and offering a portal to a different way of life that stands as a unique epitome of beauty. Yet, I’m humbled to say that no amount of words can ever truly encapsulate its essence; that words can only scratch the surface of the city depths.
Though some memories may have slipped through the cracks of time, I’m certain that the imprint Istanbul has left on my heart will endure for eternity. It was more than just a destination; it was a journey of the spirit, a celebration of life’s myriad wonders and complexities.
As I bid farewell to this enchanting city, I do so with a deep sense of gratitude. Istanbul has enriched my life in ways I never thought possible, and for that, I will be forever indebted. Until we meet again, Istanbul. Hoşça kal.
April 05, 2024
No Comments